These instructions are for people looking for a simple
ski waxing. Experienced waxers can take this for what it's worth. It is
meant to give beginners answers and specific instructions, not just
generalizations. Once beginners get more experience they can modify
these approaches and upgrade to optional tools and techniques as they
see fit. If you have any comments on what you see here or notice any
inaccuracies or have any major disagreements let me know. All comments
accepted in the spirit in which they are given.
1) Recommended tools
Thick plastic scraper : Pick up several of these and keep them sharp
using a file. Buy one at each shop or ski area you visit and you have a
good supply and reminder of your travels. They get covered with wax and
dull so have a spare.
File for sharpening scrapers : Use for sharpening above scrapers. Lay
the file on a flat surface and rub the edge back and forth on the file.
Try to keep it vertical
Nylon (white) brush : Stiff bristle brush for general removal of waxes.
Cost about $10-15 at a shop. A vegetable brush works quite well. I used
one for several years. I still use it for brushing off loose wax
particles and general cleanup.
Horsehair brush : No cheap alternative. Same cost as above. Used for
final removal of wax from structure. Especially on harder waxes. An
indispensable brush. Wish I hadn't waited so long to buy one. You
need an extra one if you are going to apply pure fluoro waxes.
You want to dedicate one for this purpose only
Brass brush : Used to open up the base pores and for cleaning. A pot
scrubbing brush from the hardware store works. Again I used one for
several years. Useful for removing last bits of very hard waxes. A
combo brush of mixed brass and nylon is a good compromise.
Scotch brite (blue) : Used for polishing and removing last bits of wax
from ski. Don't buy green, it's too abrasive. Blue is available at
hardware store. White is very soft and used for final polishing. It's
hard to find outside a ski shop.
Foam cork : The above brushes are for glide wax. A foam cork is used
for spreading out kick wax on classic skis. They cost about $4-5 but
there's no substitute
Iron : If you don't want to shell out $75 or more for a wax iron you
can use a clothes iron. Small travel irons work good because they don't
have steam holes. But you have to be careful with them because of poor
temperature control. If you always keep the iron moving and use a
thermomelt stick (see next) you can wax just fine. A lot of people use
old irons found at garage sales. Splurge and get a good iron. It's
safer. Another alternative is to forego hotwaxing and use
pastewaxes. See below.
Thermomelt stick : An insurance policy when using cheap irons to wax
skis. Get one that melts at 200F so you're well under the temperature
that can damage skis.. Use it to set you iron temperature. Cost about
Ice scraper : Used to remove kick wax from kick zone of classic skis.
The angled edge works better for removing old dirty built up kick wax
than the straight edge of the plastic scrapers. Plus you won't get kick
wax all over your glide wax scrapers and they're cheap.
Mineral spirits : Used to remove last bits of kick wax on classic skis.
When you want to clean all the way down to the base and start over this
works fine. Commercial wax removers were mineral spirits for years. Now
they have citrus based stuff that works good but is pricey. Don't use
on glide portions. Only on kick zone. This also works good for cleaning
scrapers, irons, and the tops and sides of skis.
Ski binders : Straps to hold skis together while keeping bases from
touching. Very handy way to control skis while transporting and keeps
bases from rubbing against each other.
Masking tape : Use to mask off kick zone on classic skis when glide
waxing tips and tails.
150 Grit sandpaper : Use to rough up kick zone on classic skis before
waxing. Also use to smooth out dinged edges
General comments on tools: If you have big hands buy the big brushes.
Small hands but the small ones. They're easier to control. In a pinch
scotchbrite works for final removal of wax if you don't have a
horsehair brush. If you apply the high tech fluoro waxes you may want
to get two sets of brushes and label one for fluoro only and keep it in
a plastic bag. It doesn't do much good to be brushing out your
expensive fluoro wax with a brush impregnated with hydrocarbon wax. Get
a cheap plastic tool box or tackle box to keep your tools and wax in.
You'll accumulate a big collection over the years so don't go too
small. Cover it with decals and you'll look like a pro!
The above tools are almost a necessity. I view it to be the minimum
required to get by. After you waxed a few skis you may want to consider
upgrading to the tools listed below.
2) Optional or upgrade tools
Wax iron : When I bought my first real wax iron it was amazing how much
easier waxing was. It did cost $80 but it almost seemed worth it. They
hold heat better and the bottoms are very flat so they evenly heat the
ski better than a clothes iron
Commercial wax remover : Toko makes a citrus gel that works like magic
to remove old kick wax and it smells a lot better than mineral spirits.
$12 for about 5 oz's however but it goes along way.
Riling tool : A tool that puts linear grooves in the bottom of your
skis. These grooves break up suction when skiing on warm wet snow. In
these conditions structure does more for ski speed than wax does. If
you have a pattern stoneground in your skis you can get by without this
tool. It's expensive $40-80. But when it's really wet it allows you to
add more structure to what you already have. An advanced tool.
Groove tool : When you scrape glide wax off the ski you need to remove
it from the grove as well. You can do this with the edge of most
plastic scrapers. But Toko designed this plastic shaped pencil that
does the groove and edges very well. Can't see how they can charge $6
for a pencil shaped piece of plastic but they do. Makes a great
stocking stuffer. I.E. something you wouldn't buy yourself but if
someone gives you one you'd be happy.
Thermo Pad: A felt-like pad used for generating heat when
applying pure fluoro waxes. Also used for applying paste
waxes. A real cork cork works well too. Dedicate these for
this purpose. DOn;y use them for regular wax.
Wax bench : You can wax your skis by suspending then between two
chairs. Then you hold the ski steady with one hand and work with the
other hand or get a friend to hold the ski while you work with two
hands. I did this for a year or so and then made a form bench by
tracing my ski on the side of a 2x6 and cutting it out. It worked fine.
The goal is to immobilize the ski and support it so you can work on it
with both hands and not have it moving all over the place. The form
benches are big and clunky but they work great. Swix makes a 3 piece
vise set that works great too. It's small and portable and clamps to
any table. It's called the Cap Lock and sells for about $80.
Ski bag : Ski bags work great for storage and transport. It keeps skis
clean and you can put your poles in there too and it is an ABSOLUTE
must if you use a ski rack to transport skis. DO NOT carry skis on top
of your car unless they are in a bag. Think about the salt spray and
dirt that is flying around out there when you drive. Put them inside if
you don't have a bag.
Dust mask : When you scrape the cold hard waxes you create a lot of
dust. If you don't want to breath in wax particles use a mask. Also
avoid breathing in wax vapors if you mistakenly get the iron too hot
and the wax smokes. I don't think breathing in wax fumes is very good
for your lungs. If you use a lot of high fluoro waxes you may want to
consider a respirator mask. It has been proven that prolonged exposure
to fluorine fumes is very dangerous to your health. At least be sure
you have good ventilation.
3) Recommended waxes
There are lots of good waxes out there. This is a list of waxes that
you can't go wrong with. Some of them are universally accepted as the
Fastwax purple (base prep) : Used for prepping new skis and newly
stoneground skis. This stuff is supposed to have smaller molecules so
it get absorbed better. At least that is what the manufacturer says..
See Swix yellow.
Medium - Rex Blue or Fastwax Blue (glide) : Rex blue is one of those
universal standards. Just about every skier has a cake of this stuff.
It's famous for it wide temperature range. I train on this stuff quite
a bit. When in doubt put on Rex blue and go ski. This is a medium
temperature wax (14F - 30F) The Fastwax blue is good reviews, is
inexpensive and it's a local company.
Cold - Start Green or Fastwax White (glide) : Start green is another
one of those standard waxes. Universally accepted as the best wax to
use for cold conditions and cold fresh snow (15F and below) Fastwax
white is reported to be as good or better and is easier to apply
because it's not so hard. Start green is very hard and difficult to
Warm - Swix yellow (glide) : Not much works when it gets warm. This
stuff is very soft and can be used as a base prep wax as well. When
it's warm you need structure at a minimum and for better glide you need
to go to the fluoro stuff in the next section or just be satisfied with
slower skis. The fluoro stuff is expensive.
Rex Orange Base binder (kick) : Put this stuff on your kick zone first
and your kick wax will stick better and last longer
Swix Extra Blue (kick) : Here's another one of those standard waxes.
Sometimes called the Midwest universal kick wax. Use a little when it's
cold, put it on thicker as it warms up
Swix Extra Red (kick) : Use this when it get warm or the track get
glazed. If this doesn't work it's time to go to klister or waxless skis
4) Optional waxes
Think about these waxes for special conditions and racing or when you
want to get more serious about your waxing.
Paste wax (glide) : If you don't want to take the time to hot wax your
skis and the conditions are average then rub on or paste waxes are
supposed to work. They don't last as long however. Fastwax
has just come out with their SlickPro line of pastewaxes. They
appear to be a good compromise for people who are casual skiers and
want to save the cost of an iron, a bench, and all the brushes ($100+)
Fastwax Tan (glide) : This is a high fluoro wax used when it's warm
and/or humid. High fluoros are a waste of money when it below 25F
unless it very humid. The Fastwax line is a lot cheaper than Swix or
Toko. Tan is good up to 27F. Another thing about fluoros is they last
longer than hydrocarbons. So I use them for races and important
training days or road trips where I want good skis. If it gets warmer
there is salmon and bronze. High fluoro waxes are usually applied over
a layer of conventional (hydrocarbon) wax. About $25-30 for 80 gms
(that's enough for 8-10 pairs of skis)
Pure fluoro : This stuff can be expensive. Some brands run about $100
for 30 gms (about 4 pairs of skis) It's used when it warm and sloppy
and humid. The solid forms tend to be a little less expensive and still
work pretty good. The Birke calls for this stuff a lot these day
with the advent of global warming. It's the only thing that works under
wet conditions. I have some. I use it for races, when appropriate
and for important workouts when needed. You have to learn how to
apply it. Applied wrong it can be slower than regular wax.
See section below under Glide Waxing for how to apply solid
Buy more colors of kick wax : If you want to fine tune your kick waxing
there are more colors to choose from. Each color has a specific
temperature range. There are also more exotic (more expensive) kick
waxes that are easier to spread out and last longer. See next item
High tech kick waxes : Swix makes it VR Krystal line (new) and Toko has
it's Carbon line. They are supposed to last longer, repel dirt, and
have less drag. One thing I'm sure of is that they have a smoother
consistency which make them easier to spread on the ski in a nice
Rex Power grip (kick) : This is a new approach to kick wax. It claims
to have extremely wide temperature ranges. They only have 3 colors and
the stuff seems to last for ever. It's an elastomer. You put this stuff
on your ski. The snow bites into the wax. It deforms to give you grip
and then it returns to it's original shape. Pretty neat stuff. A lot of
club members have tried it and they are getting good results.
Klister (kick) : This stuff is basically glue (see wax theory below).
If you have to race when it's icy it's the only wax that works. It also
works when it's well above freezing. If you're racing in these
conditions it's the only way to go. Pick a brand and use it. . If
you're just out for a workout use waxless skis.
5) A little waxing theory
Don't worry this won't be too technical. Though the glide wax section
is a bit deep. Just a little conceptual information so you understand
what you're trying to accomplish when you apply wax.
Kick : In kick waxing you are trying to develop traction so you can
push off the snow to propel yourself down the track. You can get
traction in two ways. One is to have the snow dig into the bottom of
the ski so you can push off. The other is to have the ski stick to the
snow so you can push off. The first method is accomplished with regular
kick waxes. The second is accomplished with klisters. This second
method is similar to the way waxless skis work. They stick or dig into
the snow to develop traction for push off. For regular kick waxing we
need the snow crystals to dig into the wax to get traction. Cold dry
snow has hard sharp edges. Warm snow has softer rounded edges. We only
want the snow to dig into the wax enough to get us a platform to push
off of. If it digs in too much we'll get lots of traction but too much
drag as the snow crystals won't release when we start gliding. So the
colder and dryer the snow is the harder wax we use. As the temperature
rises and the crystals get softer, rounder and wetter we use a softer
wax. Eventually the snow is so soft or wet that it won't dig into what
ever wax we put on the ski. Then we use klister. Klister is basically
glue. It causes the ski to stick to the snow surface and that gives us
the traction we need to push off. Klister is used when it's warm and
wet and also when the trails are icy. We put the wax or klister on the
portion under the foot called the wax pocket. It extends from the heel
forward to about 12-18 inches in front of the toe. This is the area of
the ski that does not touch the snow when we have our weight evenly
distributed on both skis. We are gliding when in this position. The
camber of the ski is keeping the wax pocket from touching the snow.
When we kick or push off we shift all our weight to one ski. This
drives the wax pocket into contact with the snow and develops the
traction we discussed above. This all assumes that the skis are not too
stiff or too soft for your body weight. This is known as ski fit.
Glide : Glide waxing is about adjusting the physical properties of the
ski base to allow it to glide as fast as possible. Skis are slowed down
by two factors: Friction and Suction. Friction is determined by how
hard the ski base is relative to the snow surface and how much weight
is on each part of the ski. We will not talk about the weight aspect
here. Proper pressure distribution is what ski fit is all about.
Suction is a function of how much water is under the ski. Water
develops due to the friction of the ski gliding over the snow. It may
also be already present in the snow under warn conditions. The lower
the friction and the lower the suction the faster the ski glides. Snow
crystals will dig into the bottom of the ski and cause friction which
slows the ski down. We can make the ski base harder by putting hard wax
into the base. A ski base is porous. It will absorb wax and it's
hardness will change depending on the hardness of the wax we put in it.
Wax manufacturers have determined how hard a wax is needed for a given
temperature. Thus we select a wax for the expected snow temperature and
apply it. The colder the snow the harder the wax. The warmer the snow
the softer the wax. At temperatures above about 15F the skis are
gliding on a thin film of water. This water is created by the friction
of the ski melting the snow. This is wet friction. The different waxes
try to manage the production of water to produce optimum glide. Too
much water and you get suction and the ski slows down. Too little water
(dry friction) and the ski slows down. Dry friction conditions are
generally slower than wet friction conditions. At temperatures below
15F you can't make enough friction to create any water. Under these
conditions the smoother and harder the ski base the better the glide.
That's why we put on hard wax, have minimal structure and polish the
bases when it's very cold. So the simple rule is hard waxes for cold
temps, soft waxes for warm temps. The extra water problems caused by
warm or wet snow are handled by using fluoro waxes which repel water,
similar to the way water beads up on a waxed car. By repelling water
the suction is reduced. Ski structure is more important than wax when
dealing with wet snow.
6) Base prep
New skis or skis that have been just stoneground have no wax in the
base. They need to be waxed and scraped several times before they will
attain their glide speed potential. Melt the base prep wax on your
skis. Smooth out with an iron and let cool for 20-30 minutes. Scrape
off and brush a moderate amount each time (see glide waxing) and
repeat at least 5 times. The 4th time use red wax and the 5th time use
blue wax. You are progressively trying to harden the base.
After the last time finish off the job by thoroughly scraping and
brushing. Next progress to a wax that you will ski on. Rex Blue
for average conditions. Prepare the skis as described in the glide wax
section. For the next several ski outings rewax after each session. Be
sure to get some green wax in the ski eventually as well. The
skis get faster by waxing and skiing as apposed to just waxing over and
over again. It's also more fun. If these are new skis and your only
pair you may not want to take them out in the early season. The snow
cover can be marginal and your new skis can get scratched up. That's
what rock skis are for. A standard ploy for people getting into skiing
is to buy one or two steps down from the top and ski those for a year
or two. Then when you're ready to move up buy a top of the line pair
and use your old skis for rock skis. You can never have too many pairs
of skis. You should get your skis base prepped even if you are
going to use pastewaxes instead of hardwaxes. It's good for the
skis and the pastewax will adhere better and last longer. But since you
don't have an iron and all the tools, get or pay someone to do it for
7) Classic waxing
Classic skis have to be both kick waxed and glide waxed. See skate
waxing for this part. Everything described there applies here. Put
masking tape over the kick area when glide waxing classic skis to keep
glide wax off the wax pocket. How often you glide wax your classic skis
depends on how serious you are about performance. If you're just a
tourer you can probably get by glide waxing with Rex Blue once or twice
a year, especially if they're not high end race skis. For training you
should do it whenever there is a major change in the conditions or
before an important workouts or road trips. If you're racing you'll wax
exactly like you do for skate skis. To tell the truth when I didn't do
classic races I only glide waxed once, maybe twice a year. Remember
however that wax does protect your ski bases from oxidation and
wear. The new pastewaxes from Fastwax are a good option here for
In order to wax a classic ski you must know where the wax pocket is.
It's that portion of the ski that is off the snow when your weight is
evenly distributed on both skis. If you bought your skis at a good ski
shop they should have marked it for you. If it's not marked you can
assume it runs from where your heel is to about 12-18 inches in front
of your toes. You can measure it by standing on both skis on a smooth
level surface as if you were gliding and have a helper slide a piece of
paper forward until it stops. This is the front of your wax pocket.
Mark it with a magic marker on the sidewall. Assuming your skis are fit
for your weight you now know were the wax pocket is. Clean off any old
wax using an ice scraper. Then remove the rest with mineral spirits or
commercial wax remover and paper towels. If you haven't roughened the
kick area before, use 150 grit sand paper to roughen it. This makes the
kick wax adhere to the base better. Don't go beyond the marks that
indicate you wax pocket.
Base binder : Base binder wax will help your wax last longer. In
general wax sticks better to base binder than to the ski base. Base
binder is a special formulation of wax that sticks to the ski base
better than regular wax. Rub the binder wax on the wax pocket and
smooth it out with an iron to form a thin layer. If you use your glide
wax iron don't forget to clean the base before using it to glide wax.
Use light pressure on your waxing cork for the final smoothing step.
There should be no clumps visible. You can work back and forth with the
Kick wax : Select the wax appropriate for the temperature and rub it on
the ski for entire length of the wax pocket. Kick wax works better in
multiple thin layers instead of one thick layer. Use the flat side of
the foam cork and with light pressure smooth out the wax so it becomes
almost invisible. Then put another layer on and cork again. Use a light
touch you don't want to mix the layers. Put on at least one more layer
and maybe more depending on how long you plan to ski. The end result
should look smooth and almost invisible. This is easier to accomplish
with the high tech waxes and with harder waxes. If you're using a soft
wax try putting it in the freezer for a bit to harden it up so it won't
clump when you rub it on. Put the skis outside to cool off. They are
warm. If you put them on the snow they will melt the snow and ice up.
Use ski binders to keep the wax from getting all over everything and/or
Klister : Put klister on by rubbing diagonal streaks of klister every
inch or so along the wax pocket on each side of the groove. Don't get
any in the groove. Then with a klister spreader (small plastic spatula)
smooth the klister out to cover the entire wax pocket. One layer is
enough. It helps to see someone apply klister at least once before you
try it. Some people spread out klister with the palm of their hand or
fingers. It supposedly works good but I don't know how you get it off
your hand when you're done. Again put the skis outside to cool. Don't
store skis with klister in a warm area. The klister will melt and run
down the ski. Use ski binders to keep the wax from getting all over
everything and/or dirty. Very important with klister. Personally, if
klister is required, I use waxless skis.
8) Adjusting the wax while skiing
When skiing on a freshly waxed classic ski the wax may not work right
away. It seems that it takes several kilometers of skiing for the wax
to setup and start working so give it a chance. If after a few K you
are still slipping rub on more wax of the same type but a bit further
forward, (2 inches) Smooth it out with a cork. When classical skiing
always carry extra wax of the day and a cork. You may also want to
bring the next warmer wax just in case. If you are still slipping rewax
with the next warmer wax. Just take of the skis. Stick the tails in the
snow. Get out your wax. Hold the top of the ski with one hand and rub
the wax on with the other. steady the ski against your foot. Smooth it
out with a cork. Don't be too concerned with how pretty the wax job is
at this point. Just rub it on and cork it a bit. You'll probably have
to rub fairly hard because the wax and ski are cold.
9) Skate waxing
There are several steps required in glide waxing. I'll list them in
order. You can jump in anywhere on the list where it applies to your
situation. All steps are not required everytime you wax. We will begin
by assuming you are about to wax a ski that you have been skiing long
enough that it needs re-waxing or you wish to change waxes because of
conditions. In general glide wax lasts longer and works better if it
applied in several layers. Multiple layers of the same wax or multiple
layers of different temperature waxes starting from the coldest and
progressing on to the warmest. I will not cover the theory behind
layering. I don't really understand it. If you're training one layer is
enough. A long training day or road trip use two layers. For a race as
many as you can stand to do. Check with the wax reports from the
1) Clean the ski : Brush the
base with a brass brush from tip to tail. This opens up the pores in
the base and removes any dirt that might be impregnated in the base.
Many people also do what is called purge waxing. A soft wax is melted
on to the base and ironed in and then is scraped off while still warm (
see steps 2 and 3). This supposedly pulls old wax and dirt out of the
base. If you do this use a white nylon brush to remove as much of the
soft wax as possible before moving on. I only do this before races, but
that's me. You decide.
2) Add structure : If you
don't have a structure already stoneground into the base you can add
structure here by using a riling tool. If the weather is going to be
around freezing this is a good idea. If you don't have a riling tool
don't worry about it. Your skis will be slower than they otherwise
might be but so will most other people's.. It's best to have this
procedure demonstrated to you so watch someone do it sometime.
This will even work if you plan on using pastewax in step 3. But
remember one of the reason for pastewax is simplicity, so maybe not.
3) Hot wax the ski : My
favorite way to hotwax and an easy way for beginners is to touch the
bar of wax to the bottom of the iron and then quickly rub the bar on
the base of the ski. You can cover about 2 inches of the ski per touch.
Swirl the bar on the iron a bit to get more wax to melt and smear it on
the ski base. As the bottom of the iron loads up with wax and starts to
drip do a little ironing several times down the ski to capture the wax
that's on the bottom of the iron. This method isn't as messy and
doesn't waste as much wax. Work your way down the ski on both sides of
the groove. Now start ironing the ski. Keep the iron moving so as to
spread out the wax and not to over heat the ski. Don't let the wax
smoke. If it smokes turn the iron down. It will probably smoke a bit
when touching the wax bar to the iron, but will be ok when ironing the
ski. Keep working until the entire ski is coated with wax. It's fairly
common for the base to not be flat from edge to edge. The ski buldges
down the middle as it absorbs wax. You may have to iron each side if
the groove separately. This should take about 2-3 minutes. Clean the
wax out the groove with the edge of a scraper or a groove pin. Run the
scraper over the edge at a 45 degree angle to remove the wax from the
edge. Let cool for 20-30 mins. Waxing should be done at room
temperature. Do the other ski
3a) Alternative to hot waxing (Paste)
: For those people who are casual skiers, especially those with
entry level classic skis (and skate skis too) who would like to skip
the ironing and scraping step (and the expense of the tools)
There is a reasonable option. Realize that the wax job, though
being easy, may not be as durable. If you have entry level skis
the bases are not the same quality as middle in high end skis.
These bases don't hold wax as well and some might say that hotwaxing an
inexpensive ski is a waste of time. It doesn't do anything.
I believe there is some truth to that. So your option is to use
paste waxes. You will probably apply them more often than real
glide waxes but it only taxes 5 minutes and hardly any tools.
This method assumes Fastwax SlickPro. As in step 1, you should still
clean the ski with a brash brush. After that apply the pastewax
with the applicator that comes in the tin. Pick the color that
matches the projected snow temperatures. Get Blue for sure and
optionally Red and Green for warmer and colder conditions
respectively. Check the temperature ranges on the tin. A
simple thing is to just use Blue, sort of like Rex Blue, a
universal. Most of the time it will be just fine. LEt the
wax dry for 5 minutes and then vigorously scrub with a Thermo
Pad. This is to create some heat to bond the wax to the
ski. Really get into it. Rub hard and fast. If you
have a bench great use it. But one of the reasons for going with
this product is to avoid the cost of a bench. Brace the tail of
the ski against you foot and buff the wax out. When done do a
final brush with white fibertex. If you have a horsehair brush
use it for this final buff. Otherwise the fibertex is fine.
Paper towels work fine for this and in a pinch can even be a substitute
for the Thermo Pad. You're done, skip to step 8 and go
skiing. I would guess this wax job will last for 20-30K and then
you should re-apply.
3b) Application of Pure Fluoros:
(solid form) Crayon on the solid fluoro on the ski.
Completely covering the base. Take a dedicated thermo pad or real
cork and vigorously scrub the applied wax. I like to apply a
moderate temperature iron to help the bonding along at this point,
after you have done the initial spreading of the wax. Then
continue with more scrubbing for as long as you can tolerate . (2-3
minutes). Let the wax cool for a few minutes, especially if you
used an iron. Then "brush up" the wax with a dedicated horsehair
brush. By brush up I mean lightly brush the wax but such that it
stays on the ski base. Don't brush it off. This starts the
final brushing but leaves the residue on the ski for one more pass with
the thermo pad to ensure you have good coverage. Let cool again
for a few minutes and then with the dedicated horsehair brush remove
the excess wax. With pure fluoros you are creating a "top
coat" The wax does not penetrate the ski like regular glide
waxes. After you have cleaned off the excess wax, (you are
removing the excess from the structure as well) polish with a
dedicated polishing brush or white fibertex. Dedicated means for
pure fluoros only. You don't want to use a brush that's
impregnated with hydrocarbon wax. All you'll be doing is
spreading hydrocarbon layer over your expensive wax
job. Store these tools in a ziplock bag to keep them
4) Scrape : After the ski has
cooled scrape the wax from the base with a sharp scraper. Start from
the tip with the scraper tilted away from you. Push the scraper down
the ski with your fingers on the top of the scraper and your thumbs at
the bottom. Make one pass and then come back and clean up what you
missed. Keep the scraper clean by scraping it with another scraper.
Just like ironing if the ski base isn't flat you may have to do each
side of the groove separately. The goal is to remove all the wax from
the surface. You ski on wax in the base not on it. The scraper will not
get all the wax off the base. The remainder is removed by brushing.
5) Brush : Using a white
brush make short (1-2 feet) firm strokes as you move from tip to tail.
You should see wax powder coming off the ski as you brush. Periodically
clean the brush by rubbing a scraper over it to remove the loose wax
particles. You may want to wear a dust mask depending on how much wax
dust you create. Make at least three passes with the nylon brush. If
the wax is a warm wax like Swix yellow you may be done. Harder waxes
need the horsehair brush to get the last bit off. Use the same
procedure as before. You're done when you don't see any more dust
coming off the ski. Nylon bristles are bigger and remove the bulk of
the wax. The horsehair bristles are smaller and stiffer and remove the
rest of the wax. Horsehair is good for removing the wax from the
6) Repeat step 2-4 as needed
: Training? you're done. Racing?, go back and do 1 -3 more layers
7) Final polish : Using white
fibertex (scothbrite) or blue if you're careful. Take long strokes from
tip to tail to polish the ski one more time. Stick the piece of
scothbrite to the bottom of the white nylon scraper and use that to
hold the sheet while you use it. Several passes should do the trick. If
you'll be in real cold conditions polish until it's shiny.
8) Go Skiing
10) Ski Storage
At the end of the season or any time you will not be using a pair of
skis for an extended period. Do a complete glide wax job with a single
layer of wax but don't scrape it off. Store the skis in a bag leaving
the wax on the ski. This prevents the ski base from oxidizing and come
next year all you have to do is scrape off the wax, brush and go skiing.